As the winter months finally give way to lighter evenings, Executive Chef Andrew Green has created a confident and well-balanced new à la carte menu at the luxurious two AA Rosette awarding winning River Bar and Restaurant.
Using premium ingredients and local suppliers, the celebrational menu takes traditional dishes and updates them with a modern twist, showing the youthful but highly experienced chef from Glossop really hitting his stride.
Against the prevailing fashion for small plates, the accomplished new menu is inspired by the fact that 5-star hotel indulgence deserves generous servings of fondly-loved classic dishes.
Choose from an array of classic starters, such as the intense Potted Shrimp, a mouth-watering Crab Macaroni Cheese, the highly popular Twice Baked Lancashire Bomb Cheese Soufflé or the Beef Bresaola which is cooked to precision after a one-month preparation process.
We sampled both the crab macaroni cheese and the potted shrimp which we’re fun updates on traditional comfort foods. But don’t let their surface simplicity fool you; there was so much complexity in them, for example, the fish-stock infused butter mousse that bound the spicy mace coated shrimp which produced a classic, old-fashioned dish with a modern twist that is so signature to Green’s style.
For mains, stand-out dishes include Andrew’s personal favourite the Beef Wellington which is brought to the table and showcased by the chef before being sliced. Baked in mushroom duxelles, Parma ham, with puff pastry with Madeira sauce, it’s one of a number of dishes to share between two.
I have to say that this was one of the most impressive dishes I have ever had the pleasure of tasting. The pastry was crisp, and the meat had such robust flavour and was cooked to perfection with a ruby red complexion I was desperate to see. The beef cut like butter and melted in the mouth and I doubt I am going to stop thinking about it for a number of weeks.
The melt in the mouth Steamed Beef Shin, Oxtail & Kidney Pudding is another chef recommendation that is cooked over a 15-hour process with the oxtail cooked separately and poured at the table.
Fish-lovers are spoilt for choice. To decide between the delicately prepared Lowry Fish Pie which has intense flavours of the sea, or an exquisite Meuniere-style Whole Dover Sole, a prime, succulent fish served on or off the bone and cooked to perfection. Sometimes there is nothing better than the simple things in life, and this Dover Sole swimming in buttery sauce with a squeeze of fresh lemon is simplicity at its best.
Room for a pudding? Try the ‘Best of British’ selection of desserts. We tried the Steamed Treacle Sponge served with custard, naturally, takes up one hour to be steamed to precision, and should be ordered early along with the other courses. Green keeps the dough in the back ready to go at all times and trust us; it is worth the wait. Notes of ginger and orange come through the sponge which was light as a feather and paired with the stunning homemade custard, I have to say it’s one of the best desserts I’ve tried for a while.
Andrew Green’s passion and attention to detail for each dish shines through with the cutting-edge new menu. With this change of menu, the Lowry Hotel makes the perfect place to indulge and celebrate special occasions, so much sure you keep it in mind for those significant life events.
The Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf, Salford, Manchester, M3 5LH
0161 827 4041
www.thelowryhotel.com
