“We want to celebrate the labour, the soil and the growers. We believe in a connection with the source and the person behind it. Our approach to food and wine is different… We are serious about working in a way that is respectful — of the planet, the ingredients, and the people and animals who grow and make them, and of our local community.” In terms of mission statements, it’s hard to find much fault with Levenshulme favourite Isca. An intimate, understated natural wine bar and restaurant in the heart of the area, to say this is a South Manchester must-attend would be an understatement.
Suffice to say, it’s all about the ingredients, and that goes for more than what’s on the actual menu, which is always in seasonal flux. Isca is the brainchild of two esteemed doyens of the northern English restaurant world, so let’s begin with those introductions. Caroline Dubois is an artist and sommelier whose love of working with exceptional grapes and spectacular food has helped establish Stockport’s Where the Light Gets In as one of the UK’s most incredible epicurean experiences. She’s been involved since it opened in 2016. Meanwhile, many will know Isobel Jenkins for her role setting up the beloved Season’s Eatings supper club.
Due to the nature of their approach, it’s impossible to recommend specific dishes, which differ from one visit to the next, but think Courgette, Chilli and Mint Butterbean Salad with Sumac, UK Asparagus with Yogurt and Almonds, blue cheesed Jersey Royal potatoes, or Oyster Mushrooms with Polenta, Seaweed, Sorrel and Parmesan. Desserts, on the other hand, might come in the form of Ricotta doughnuts with rhubarb and creme fraiche, or Pump Street Chocolate ganache with cocoa nibs and le coste olive oil. Some items — including the incredible natural and organic wine selection — are available to take away, so take your pick from preserves, chutneys, jams, coffees, juices and cakes. Oh, and wine, of course!
